Here is the service schedule for the 12K:
Starting with the bodywork, IF you are doing your air filter. The GS is here:
https://youtu.be/AYi3FYbb7QI
GSA and RT bodywork videos are here: https://www.youtube.com/channel/UCe9ldc ... bUaYrDc_Fw
I would be happy to film the RS and R if someone local wants to donate their bike for it.
Removing the filter can usually be done by only removing the tank cover. Depending on the bike it can be that simple. See the above videos. Most bodywork screws are T-25, with the center tank cover being T-30.
My air filter looked like this:
Next onto the oil.
Drop the bash plate if you have one, T-20 Torx.
Then use a 10MM Allen to remove the plug.
Check the plug for gritty metal particles. It should feel soft like a paste.
Install the plug and torque to 42 Nm.
Now pull the filter and change it:
Don’t forget to make sure the seal comes off, and clean the mating surface.
Add a bit of oil to the seal and reinstall to 11NM
We will refill after checking the valves.
Next we check/adjust the valves.
Remove the crash guards, or other protection. Then remove the valve covers. Make sure you take off the wire covers first.
T-25 Torx for the covers.
Then remove the wire from the stick coil with a flat blade screwdriver:
Next pull the stick coil. I used a Marc Parnes puller.
Then use a 14mm spark plug socket and remove the plugs.
Now pull the valve covers. You will lose about 1-2 oz on the right side, and 4 oz on the left side. If you are doing valves without an oil change, catch the oil in a clean container and pour it back in after you are done.
Left and right:
Now rotate the engine using the rear wheel in 6th gear to reach Top Dead Center.
This is how you tell. Flats aligned with the bar codes opposite each other. This is the same on both sides.
The specs are:
Intake .10 - .17 mm
Exhaust: .34 - .41 mm
Intakes are on top:
Make sure the lobes are facing away from the engine.
Check between the lobe and the follower.
See the feeler come out behind the cam. Make sure it is lined up with the cam.
Exhaust valves are similar, but from the bottom up.
Pop off the rubber cover, and check your clearances:
If the feeler doesn’t fit, go one size smaller. If it slips in easily, try the next size up. Record your measurements.
Mine:
Note that my clearances were good except for the left intake right valve. Since this is the case, I needed to change the shims. To do that, the cams need to come out. Since my right side exhausts were at the minimum, but still in spec, I did not change shims there. I will go back in in a few thousand miles and see if they move. Then change them.
Pulling the cams is a little past the scope of a simple online tutorial, so I will just show a few photos, using the BMW tools.
I installed the BMW tools, cam chain tensioner, timing plug and cam alignment tools.
Pull the cam covers, T30 Torx.
Pull the offending shims and measure them:
Use the very cool Shimulator from inmate Dirty T!
Figure out what shims you need and swap them out.
Reinstall the cams, making sure they are aligned properly and check to make sure the gap is corrected and inline with the specs.
I took the opportunity to ensure the cams were aligned and timed correctly, they were off a bit. This is covered by MarcHyman on his thread: https://advrider.com/f/threads/using-an ... ls.937091/
Reverse install the valve covers, making sure to remember the rubber plate under the valves. Torque the valve covers T-50 Torx to 10 NM.
Next on to the FD. You really only need to change out the oil, which is as easy as draining it and refilling with 180 ML. BUT, I like to drop the FD to check the splines and driveshaft.
I fully covered this process here: https://advrider.com/f/threads/r1200gsw ... l.1129815/
This is what I saw:
Still clean, lots of lube, no real rust, and the U-joints felt firm and no slack.
Next the brakes. While it is covered here: http://www.jvbproductions.com/R1200_200 ... bleed.html The Wethead is basically the same, with some differences.
Fronts first. Open the brake cover using a T-20 Torx, then draw out most of the fluid. Failure to do this will be messy if you push the pistons back first.
Then remove the 13mm bolts and wiggle the calipers loose:
Then insert shims to push the pistons back.
Fill the reservoir with fresh fluid. Then pump up the brakes, hold the handle and release the pressure with an 8mm wrench. I use Speedbleeder bags to catch the fluid.
After I put it together, I bleed again to ensure the fluid is clean, and at the right level. Reinstall the reservoir cap and torque the T-20 Torx to 6nm
Off to the rear:
Basically the same as the front. Drain the old fluid, and add fresh, then pump, hold, release, and repeat until the fluid is clean.
This is covered elsewhere in much more detail, but I thought I would share here.
The rear takes an 11mm wrench.
Bonus, when done, I pope out the brake caliper pin holders and pins, sand them clean, then add anti-seize and reinstall. This keeps them from dragging and uneven brake wear.
T-30 Torx:
The rear is two clips and a pin the pushes out, same process though.
