The goal for this ride was the Maryland Scenic Byways "C & O Canal Route," starting partway along in Sharpsburg, MD. The Official State Description is available at http://www.sha.state.md.us/exploremd/oed/scenicByways/COCanal.pdf.
I got an early start at about 7:15 and slabbed it to Myersville, then took Old Hagerstown Road and Alternate 40 to Boonsboro and 34 to Sharpsburg. Once again, it was cool enough that I was glad to have the Gerbings liner along.
Near Sharpsburg, I stopped by Snyder's Landing and then Taylor's Landing, both on the Potomac. They were interesting enough, but nothing too special (although I liked the symmetry of the trees and reflections shown here at Snyder's Landing).
Nearby was the first of what would be many abandoned houses:
The day was well and truly overcast, with ominous-looking dark clouds in many directions:
Not all the houses on this route were abandoned, by the way. Here's a stately example that caught my eye:
Next stop was Williamsport, MD. Many of the roads that run alongside the C & O Canal are narrow little numbers like this one:
At Williamsport, there's the Cushwa Warehouse and Basin on the Canal. Nearby are the remains of the aqueduct that carried the Canal across Conococheague Creek. Apparently it's fairly common for the upstream wall of such aqueducts to wash away first in floods. It provides a nice "cutaway" look at how the aqueduct was constructed.
Not far outside of Williamsport, I re-found this beautiful little waterfall. It's located in the backyard of an older, and very attractive, home. Just the place to spend relaxing afternoons and evenings. Maybe even mornings...
I had been on Dam No. 5 Road before, but only as far as the dam itself. This time, I was in search of the "ghost town" of Two Locks mentioned in the Scenic Byways write-up, which lay "near the end of Dam 5 Road." Since I was going by the dam anyway, I thought it deserved another picture, this time from the hill above the lockhouse:
Along the road, I found this house and a number of others in similar condition. While I suspected that this was the ghost town, my Washington County Map Book showed Two Locks as being farther down the road.
Continuing to search, I soon found myself on Ashton Road, meaning that I'd gone too far. I turned around, located the teeny, driveway-looking road that I thought was the continuation of Dam No. 5 Road, and set off along it to find the true Two Locks. After passing by a few newer houses, I came to a farm where the road seemed to dead end. By turning around the barn, however, I found that it continued as a muddy, rocky "tractor trail" down a steep hill. Near the bottom, it deteriorated into this rock-strewn path, followed by a muddy bog:
Deciding that discretion was the better part of valor, even on A Mighty GS, I chickened out and turned around. It was a good decision, since I later discovered that this was not, in fact, the extension of Dam No. 5 Road. Instead, I was on a farmer's private property! (Fortunately, the farmer and any of his shotguns were not on hand.) Of course, I still had to scrabble back up this hill, sneak back through the farm, etc., as part of my hasty retreat. (I know, I know: The Dude, Mike E., Tim, JVB, and the rest of the kool-aid gang would have thought nothing of it!) But, since I was on the wrong road, you all would have just ended up at the farmer's south 40 or whatever, and not at Two Locks...) At any rate, my search for the ghost town will have to resume on the next trip to that vicinity.
The Byways write-up recommended Four Locks on the C & O Canal as a worthwhile sidetrack, and it was right. First, there was this pretty view across a field:
Then the four locks themselves were quite impressive. It was necessary to raise the canal boats 32 feet in a relatively short distance, thus requiring the series of locks. This shot looks back from Lock 49 to Lock 50:
Oh yes, time for a motorcycle picture, in this case parked near Lock 50:
At one time, Four Locks was a thriving little community, and all the local children attended this one-room schoolhouse:
From Four Locks, it was on to Hancock, MD, and then to Berkeley Springs, WV. As I and others have posted before, the view from the top of the mountain on Route 9, outside of Berkeley Springs, is too beautiful to pass up--and it clearly merits a picture:
Now the real fun began. I'd ridden Route 9 before, so this time I took "Detour Road," which Google Maps had indicated as running back to Route 9 near Paw Paw, WV. While I love Google Maps, this time they lied!! Detour Road started off as a great little curving lane that ran up and over a mountain. Anyone know what these purple bushes are? They were everywhere and looked beautiful.
After a dozen miles or more, Detour Road abruptly ended at Magnolia Road--and no indication of which way led to Paw Paw. My well-honed, intuitive sense of direction told me that I should turn left. That direction, however, soon appeared to lead up and back over the big mountain that I'd just crossed, so that didn't seem right. (Remember: No GPS, no detailed WV map, and an overcast day, so even East and West weren't apparent!) So, I turned around and headed back along the twisting roads in the opposite direction. At least it was fun riding!
After 5 or 6 miles in the opposite direction, I encountered a "Dead End Ahead" sign. I turned around again, swallowed my pride, and stopped at the one house that I'd seen anywhere along the road. Remember, now, that this was the back hills of West Virginia. And while I detest stereotyping as much as anyone, this place had a certain "Deliverance" look to it... Lots of junked cars parked along the unpaved road to the house, ceramic nomes in the garden, a decidedly dilapidated look to the house itself, smoke from the chimney--and no one around nor a sound to be heard.
I parked the GS, took off my helmet, and walked to the front door, which was crooked on its hinges. I might have been humming the theme from "The Brave Little Toaster" to myself... Before I could knock, a huge fellow in bib overalls came to the door and looked sternly at me. I stammered out my question as to how to get to Paw Paw, while his eyebrows tilted farther and farther downward. Various kin started to congregate in the shadows just inside the door...
Okay, it actually turned out that he was quite a nice guy and very helpful (despite the fact that I'd woken him from a nap!) He said the "Dead End" direction turned to dirt and went to Paw Paw in 5 miles. The opposite direction was paved but was 8 or 9 miles. He showed me the mushrooms he'd picked that morning, described how to fry them in butter and sugar, asked about the BMW, and generally seemed glad to have some company.
After bidding him and his family farewell, I set off in the dirt direction, naturally, and soon found it. Initially the road was well packed and reasonably smooth:
Eventually, however, after several miles, it turned into a rock-infested narrow path, followed by yet another Significant Bog. This is the point where (yet again) I decided to turn around and try the high road...
At least on the way back, I spotted this colorful picture of a 1966 Chevy Biscayne and more of them purple things. (My wife Nancy just told me that it's an American Redbud, by the way.)
Eventually, I ended up back on Route 9, just outside of Paw Paw. Following the Byways guide again, I turned on David Thomas Road and began the long dirt climb up the mountain and then back down to the town of Little Orleans, MD. By now (Mike), I could "hustle" the GS along such dirt roads at 30 mph or so without feeling too out of control, and there were lots of pretty spots along the way for more pho op's.
Reaching Little Orleans after a good 15 miles or more of dirt-tracking, I found Bill's Bar and The General Store. That's all there was left of the town! That and a few fisherfolk:
Nearby, however, was the C & O Canal aqueduct over 15 Mile Creek. It was in pretty good shape:
Some of you will remember from an earlier ride report how I was run off a property by a zealous Girl Scout. This time, I suffered the indignity of having to wait for a lengthy group of Cub Scouts to cross the aqueduct before I could return. Sigh ... is there no hope for us motorcyclists any more? We get "Wild Hogs" instead of "The Wild One." Just ain't the same!
Now, here's the real mystery. About 100 yards upstream on 15 Mile Creek, the creek goes through an obviously man-made tunnel. There's no aqueduct on top of the tunnel, no train tracks (except maybe way up the ridge, nor any other reason for anyone to build a tunnel there that I could see. Can anyone provide the answer? (A friend at work said it must be a Revolutionary War Tunnel of Love...)
Okay, Tina--I found a nice river to park the GS next to for a picture! (The confluence of 15 Mile Creek on the right and the Potomac in the background, in this instance.)
By now it was getting late. I had planned to return down the dirt road to Paw Paw and move on to Oldtown, but that was before I realized the dirt road was 15 miles or more long. Consequently, I decided to go north, instead, toward Interstate 68--but I had no idea how to get there. My not-so-detailed Maryland map seemed to indicate that almost any road out of Little Orleans would work (and there were only two). My first attempt, of course, ended in another Dead End. (I really wanted a GPS by then!)
For once, however, my vaunted sense of direction managed to take me in a correct (and visually interesting) shortcut back to Little Orleans. After that, the second choice of roads worked and sped me up to 68 without problems.
I putted on home via 68, 40, and 70--mostly in a light rain. With my helmet vents closed, heated grips and jacket liner turned on, and rain gear on, I was quite comfortable. Best of all, I'd had a terrific trip and a series of adventures. (Although, as a friend of mine likes to say, "Adventures suck when you're having them!") In truth, I enjoyed mine without question.
All told, it was 288 miles and about 10 1/2 hours of exploring. Even the rain didn't dampen the fun. Sorry you and Walt couldn't join the trip, Kitty, but I hope you had a fun time in Virginia. As always, if anyone is interested in the exact route, just let me know.
Rick F.
