I use a product called "Corrosion Block" or "ACF-50" to protect my bike from corrosion caused by salt and water.
It's a product that really works, so I love telling people about it. We all want our bikes to be perfect!
You can buy it at West Marine for about $20. It's pricey but worth it. One bottle will last a very long time and save you from expensive damage in the long run.
You can almost dip you bike in it, so I put it everywhere except the plastic (although it's fine on plastic), the windscreen, rims, brakes and rotors.
It can be used as a dielectric grease, too, so you don't have to worry about getting CB on the electronics.
Unfortunately I couldn't find something other than the can. I've seen it applied on airplanes using an atomizer, which would make life easier for me. I first clean my bike with soap and water, then paint the Corrosion Block on using a paint brush (the bristle type, not the foam). I paint it all over and then wipe off the excess with a rag. All that is needed is a thin film. I also clean my chain and spray CB on the chain, then put chain lube on top of that. The CB spreads, so I'm careful around brakes and tires.
If I've ridden in salty conditions, like from commuting all week, I just hose the bike down. The Corrosion Block will still stick to the bike. I don't go crazy
with soap and scrubbing, though. I want that barrier to remain, so I do quick rinse with cold water. Sometimes I reapply it in some spots. When spring arrives, I'll have a layer of dirt all over your bike. Worry not! Beneath this layer, Corrosion Block is doing its job.
In the springtime, I break out the soap and scrub my bike down. That layer of dirt and Corrosion Block really takes some scrubbing to remove. I then reapply CB for the spring and summer. I only need to apply CB twice a year, with maybe some reapplying in some spots. These spots will probably be the exhaust headers, since the CB tends to burn off of those.
I first learned about Corrosion Block from ukgser.com and advrider.com. This product is very popular in the UK, where it is known as ACF-50.
Here are some of its capabilities:
* ACF-50 is an excellent penetrant.
* ACF-50 provides excellent low-shear lubrication to moving parts and cables.
* ACF-50 kills any corrosion currently in progress with just one application.
* Removal of the corrosion by-product is not necessary.
* ACF-50 is good for rubber, preventing it from cracking or drying out.
* In most applications, ACF-50's unique properties will last for 24 months before it is consumed and needs to be re-applied.
* The ultra-thin-film does not attract and hold salt crystals and dirt particles.
* The ultra-thin film does not "dry". It stays a flexible liquid and therefore seals the surface better as the surface expands and contracts.
* ACF-50 will not displace or melt any grease which is already in place. It will mix with it and make it more efficient.
* ACF-50 will not support combustion.
* ACF-50 has a very low percentage of Volatile Organic Compounds (less than 17%).
* ACF-50 is non-carcinogenic and virtually non-toxic. Incidentally, full toxicality testing has been done to support this claim.
* ACF-50 can be easily removed with MEK or soap and water.
* ACF-50 will not harm any plastics or painted surfaces.
* ACF-50 can be safely applied to electronics such as radios, timers, test equipment, antenna connections, computers, etc. However, we recommend you avoid using it on LED's, LCD's and soft membrane switches.
* ACF-50 can be safely applied to electrical components such as alternators, starters, magnetos, generators, distributors, carburators, wiring, switches, rheostats, compressors, battery terminals, light bulb sockets, electrical connectors, circuit breakers, ignition systems, wire harnesses, etc.
Here's a good article on applying it onto your bike:http://www.bikechatforums.com/viewtopic ... 58#2311458
West Marine:http://www.westmarine.com/webapp/wcs/st ... sku=441942