Eastern Shore Rambling

Tell Us About Your Rides!

Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Rick F. » Sun Nov 29, 2009 10:45 pm

The Eastern Shore of Maryland is enormously popular for its ocean beaches. But it's also one of the most historic parts of the State, and I was looking forward to exploring as much of it as I could in 8 hours or so—and to motoring briskly from one site to the next.

My first port of call was Wye Mills. For all the times I'd driven to Ocean City, MD and gone right by Wye Mills, somehow I'd never stopped to look around. A pity, really, since Wye Mills was home to the famous Wye Oak tree—which stood proudly for approximately 460 years (!) before it came crashing down in a thunderstorm in 2002. Here it is in its original glory, the world's largest white oak tree—standing 96 feet tall and covering nearly a third of an acre:
ImageImage


Today, however, only a sapling grown from the original Wye Oak stands where its parent once grew (starting in approximately 1540...)
Image


By comparison, this nearby one-room schoolhouse is a relative newcomer, having been built merely in colonial times.
Image


Also in Wye Mills, one might reasonably expect to find a mill. This one has operated continuously since its construction in 1682, making it the oldest working grist mill in Maryland.
Image


Various worn out (but scenic!) grist mill parts graced the back yard.
Image


As I roamed around the grounds, I had that feeling that I was being watched. Never turn your back on a tree-full of vultures...
Image


Also nearby is the Old Wye Episcopal Church, dating from 1721 (and having been constructed on the foundations of an even older church). In contrast to many of the old churches in Maryland, the doors to this one were locked, and I had to imagine the high-sided "box pews" and hanging pulpit said to wait within.
Image


From Wye Mills, I headed toward the tiny town of Bellevue, on the shores of the Tred Avon River. Along the way, I spotted this historic house, which apparently belonged to James the Forgettable...
Image


...and this once-stately church that has been similarly neglected.
Image


The most notable aspect of Bellevue is the Bellevue-Oxford ferry, which has been operating on and off (mostly on) since the Talbot County Court "pitcht upon Mr. Richard Royston to Keepe a Ferry,” on November 20, 1683. And there I was, 326 years (and one day) later, taking the ferry across the Tred Avon River to Oxford, MD. It cost $10.00 to take a BMW Z4 3.0i across the river. I didn't ask whether an M roadster or coupe would have been more...
Image


Despite the overcast skies and generally gray nature of the day, Oxford looked like it would be fun to explore.
Image


The ferry's Captain and First Mate made short work of docking the craft, and away we went.
Image


One of the first things you see in Oxford as you leave the ferry landing is the Robert Morris Inn (1710). James Michener stayed here frequently while writing Chesapeake in the 1970s. (See, not all Jameses are forgettable...)
Image


Oxford proved to be a delightful town and well worth another visit. There were too many charming houses to count, including "Markland House," which looks quite small in this view but was roughly 5 times as long as it was wide.
Image


The Oxford habor on Town Creek still managed to offer some Fall colors, even this late in the year...
Image


...and St. Paul's Weslyan Church looked impressive, even from the back. (The view from the front was marred by contruction.)
Image


I couldn't resist a return to the harbor, however. Note that the day had improved substantially.
Image


This fellow kept a beady eye on me the whole time I was wandering around. Who knew that Oxford has a team of Guard Gulls?
Image


Not to mention bird condominiums.
Image


One last look at the harbor, and I was off to Easton, MD.
Image


Easton also merits a lengthier return trip. As historic old towns go, this one is among the best.
Image


Everywhere I turned, there was another interesting old house or building. The granite mansion shown here is located on the court house square. It was originally the Sheriff's house and jail; now it appears to be a private residence.
Image


On the outskirts of Easton, down a narrow, tree-lined dirt road, sits the Old Third Haven Meeting House. Build in 1682, it's the oldest documented building in Maryland—and all the more remarkable given its wood-frame construction. William Penn was one of many prominent Quakers to have worshipped here over the years. And, yes, the meeting house is still used except during the winter months.
Image
Image


Elsewhere on the grounds of the meeting house, I ran across this oyster dory. I don't know who Betty Webster was, but I suspect she's not in as good shape as the dory...
Image


By now, regular readers will have noticed that I often take pictures of stately old churches, among other structures. My friend Cathy has asked (more than once) why I never seem to take any pictures of Baptist churches. To make up for lost time, I kept an eye out for any such places of worship—and was rewarded with this spectacular historic Baptist church! (Okay, in fairness, this is the Faith Bible Missionary Anabaptist Church, so it may not exactly meet Cathy's definition. We'll work this out in due course, I suspect!)
Image


From Easton I traveled to Federalsburg, MD (but found nothing of note, unfortunately). Moving on toward Centreville, I made a quick detour to Denton and the Choptank River. There, naturally, I found the Choptank River Yacht Club and this pair of almost-matching (his and hers?) motor yachts.
Image


On the far shore is the Black Dog Boat Works.
Image


I don't know if this old fishing sailboat is a Black Dog restoration project or not. Regardless, it appeared to be sitting patiently onshore for a chance to return to its glory days. (Or was that what I was thinking about myself...? Is there a psychologist in the house?)
Image


As much as I love to discover abandoned, deteriorating, old homes, it's far more fun to see places that have survived and thrived, such as this one outside of Hillsboro on the banks of Tuckahoe Creek.
Image


A little further upstream, in Queen Anne, was a railroad trestle bridge—minus the railroad tracks.
Image


Centreville's attraction for me was its very early settler's houses, two of which—Tucker House and Wright's Chance—still exist and are open to the public (but only occasionally, as it turned out). Wright's Chance, incidentally, was referred to as an "old dwelling" in a 1744 land survey! However, what really captured my attention were a series of neighboring Victorian mansions, each of which was spectacular. For the first of these, in particular, I was tempted to hang around until the owners showed up and then beg them to adopt me...
Image
Image
Image


By now, as usual, the day was drawing on, and I still had a couple more places to visit. Next up was Wye Island. Most of the island is owned by the Maryland State Department of Natural Resources. Their website states that " A major emphasis at Wye Island is to provide suitable habitat for wintering waterfowl populations and other native wildlife." The DNR also allows hunting on the island, so I got a little confused by the various priorities. Either way, it's a beautiful spot, with many hiking trails (they helpfully suggest that you wear a florescent vest during hunting season...) and numerous farm fields. A narrow dirt road is the primary means of access for the island. During my visit, I saw exactly two other cars on the island, plus several dudes wearing camouflage outfits and carrying nasty-looking crossbows.
Image


Did I mention the island's beauty?
Image


Needless to say, such natural beauty could only be improved upon with the addition of a handsome sports car:
Image


As you recall, I'd missed my chance at seeing the historic Wye Oak. Wye Island, however, features a humongous holly tree, which is over 275 years old.
Image


And, yes, it really is a holly.
Image


For perspective on its size, here's a picture of Yr Fthfl Srvnt (at 6'6" tall) in front of the tree.
Image


Small parts of Wye Island are owned by private citizens. On Granary Creek, the wintering waterfowl don't have to content with hunters, but they may have to dodge the occasional sailboat.
Image


After touring the island, I made one final stop on the way home: the small town of Queenstown just before Kent Narrows and the Chesapeake Bay Bridge. Although I was mostly looking for more historic houses and scenic sites, I quickly bumped into "Bowlingly." The original land was granted to James Bowling in 1658, and an imposing Georgian home was constructed in 1733. During the War of 1812, the British invaded Queenstown, and Bowlingly sustained considerable damage. Today, it's a private residence—and it's not an easy place to get a look at. This is the best I could do, peering through a hedge...
Image


So, it was time to put up the top (now working again, thanks to replacement of the motor and hydraulics by Russell BMW in Catonsville) and head on home. At 212 miles roundtrip, this was one of my shorter ventures in the Z4, but almost every mile was scenic, historic, or both.
Image


As always, let me know if you'd like a copy of the GPX route file. And damn the approach of Winter—get out there and ride!

Rick F.
Last edited by Rick F. on Mon Sep 14, 2015 4:32 pm, edited 1 time in total.
For all my tour articles, check out rsftripreporter.net.

2020 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2013 BMW 335i convertible (sold)
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage (sold)
2006 BMW Z4 3.0i roadster (sold)
2005 BMW R1200GS (retired)
2003 BMW F650CS (sold)
User avatar
Rick F.
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 1734
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:43 pm
Location: Catonsville, MD

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby BMWGirl » Mon Nov 30, 2009 8:15 am

Wow, Rick! Those pics are sooo pretty. I love the fall pictures and the duck picture. That's a lot of ducks!

One request, please don't forget your "favorite" sister (yes, ME) when asking to be adopted by the Victorian house owners. I want to live there too :mrgreen:

Thanks for sharing your ride.
=D>
BECAUSE I CAN!!!
IBA #37898 - IBR - 2017 IBA #565 Woohoo

2015 R1200GSA white w/PURPLE :-)
'10 K1300GT
'05 R1200ST

"Riding is about having an adventure - you just go with it and No Whining!" Kermit
User avatar
BMWGirl
GO COWBOYS!
 
Posts: 10126
Joined: Mon Nov 28, 2005 5:00 pm
Location: Queen of the World

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Unity » Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:34 pm

Another worthy travelogue, Rick!

Rick F. wrote:Image

Jody and I stayed at the 1710 Robert Morris Inn once. Two things stand out in my memories of the stay. Our room had a bathroom built into a tiny closet, perhaps the most-cramped shower I have ever experienced -- and I'm a claustrophobiac! :twitching: At dinner we looked up to see Frank Perdue, the chicken man, who was as odd-looking in person as he was in his commercials ("It takes a hard man to make a tender chicken").
Image

--John
(The younger among you probably know Jim Perdue's commercials.)
2002 R1150RT, Silver
Silver, the "cool and aloof" color.
(Road & Track Vol. 56, No.2, p. 19)

1971 Triumph Bonneville, Gold
Gold, the "paying the restorer" color.
(Trust me.)
User avatar
Unity
Shaman
 
Posts: 7170
Joined: Fri Sep 17, 2004 11:26 am
Location: Reston VA

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby RocketMan » Mon Nov 30, 2009 1:56 pm

Unity wrote:Another worthy travelogue, Rick!


Jody and I stayed at the 1710 Robert Morris Inn once. Two things stand out in my memories of the stay. Our room had a bathroom built into a tiny closet, perhaps the most-cramped shower I have ever experienced -- and I'm a claustrophobiac! :twitching: At dinner we looked up to see Frank Perdue, the chicken man, who was as odd-looking in person as he was in his commercials ("It takes a hard man to make a tender chicken").



--John
(The younger among you probably know Jim Perdue's commercials.)


Ha ha! I saw Cornel Sanders (of KFC fame back when it still was Cornel Sanders KFC) in LAX back in 64, he too looked just like his commercials, even had a white German Sheppard with him.
Besides me you’re probably the only person here who would even know there actually was a Cornel Sanders!

Poke poke, rib rib……..


As for You Rick, did I mention how annoying you are becoming with your great photos and historical ramblings?? Ha Ha!

RM
Fromerly MR. MonkeyButt now Mr. Breezy-Butt!
http://roadrunes.com

"Everyone is entitled to his own opinion, but not his own facts" - Daniel Patrick Moynihan

"I think you're a NUT!"- Tina
User avatar
RocketMan
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 4578
Joined: Tue May 11, 2004 1:58 pm
Location: State of Confusion

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Dough Boy » Mon Nov 30, 2009 2:56 pm

Superb!

On your next venture, may I suggest Berlin, MD, as it's quite a picturesque little town.
Dough Boy
 

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Hello Kitty » Mon Nov 30, 2009 7:59 pm

Great stuff, Rick! What's Anabaptist mean????

Not far south of Federalsburg, you simply must investigate the Laurel-Woodland Ferry. I believe it was free, but a very lovely little ride. Walt and I saw a Bald Eagle from the Ferry a couple years ago.

N38 35.954 W75 39.374 are the coordinates in the middle of the Naticoke River - you can come at it from either side and just wait your turn. I never had the ferry leave while I was waiting because it was full, but it wouldn't surprise me!

Here's a pic from my ride across the ferry about 3 years ago :D

Image
Kitty
User avatar
Hello Kitty
Boss of Tina
 
Posts: 7474
Joined: Tue Sep 21, 2004 8:13 pm

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby R4R&R » Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:28 pm

Rick F. wrote:Today, however, only a sapling grown from the original Wye Oak stands where its parent once grew (starting in approximately 1540...)

Does the sapling growing from the base of the original qualify it as still the original tree?

Great pictures and narrative. You really have a good way of putting great photos along with a description of the day to almost have us right there with you. You're like a local tour guide for everywhere you go!
'17 Triumph Explorer 1200
'04 R1150R (gone but not forgotten)
('13 Triumph Speed Triple - sons bike)
Itchin' for a ride
User avatar
R4R&R
GO COWBOYS!
 
Posts: 1711
Joined: Mon Mar 06, 2006 10:20 pm
Location: Springfield

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Flash! » Mon Nov 30, 2009 10:57 pm

Another beautiful set of pictures, Rick! I was struck as I scrolled down through them a second time (just for visual content rather than narrative this time) at how I love the late afternoon light. The wintering waterfowl picture is outstanding.

I've been in Florida with my mother almost all month, and plan to start for VA tomorrow. Your pictures make it a little more enticing to leave this 80 degree weather and sunshine for the gray skies up north.

Jody
You do not need a parachute to skydive. You only need a parachute to
skydive twice.


2012 F650GS, Yellow and Black
User avatar
Flash!
Board Guru
 
Posts: 789
Joined: Sat Jan 22, 2005 7:11 pm
Location: Reston VA

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Dough Boy » Tue Dec 01, 2009 2:00 pm

Hello Kitty wrote:Great stuff, Rick! What's Anabaptist mean????

Not far south of Federalsburg, you simply must investigate the Laurel-Woodland Ferry. I believe it was free, but a very lovely little ride. Walt and I saw a Bald Eagle from the Ferry a couple years ago.

N38 35.954 W75 39.374 are the coordinates in the middle of the Naticoke River - you can come at it from either side and just wait your turn. I never had the ferry leave while I was waiting because it was full, but it wouldn't surprise me!

Here's a pic from my ride across the ferry about 3 years ago :D

Image


It is free.

Our Maryland tax dollars at work.
Dough Boy
 

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Rick F. » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:46 pm

BMWGirl wrote:Wow, Rick! Those pics are sooo pretty. I love the fall pictures and the duck picture. That's a lot of ducks!

One request, please don't forget your "favorite" sister (yes, ME) when asking to be adopted by the Victorian house owners. I want to live there too :mrgreen:

Thanks for sharing your ride.
=D>

Tina,

Thanks--the Eastern Shore was really attractive, and I thoroughly enjoyed my "ride" there.

As for moving into the Victorian mansion together, now that's an offer I couldn't refuse! (Oh wait, I forgot: It's with my "favorite sister." Oh well!)

Rick F.
For all my tour articles, check out rsftripreporter.net.

2020 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2013 BMW 335i convertible (sold)
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage (sold)
2006 BMW Z4 3.0i roadster (sold)
2005 BMW R1200GS (retired)
2003 BMW F650CS (sold)
User avatar
Rick F.
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 1734
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:43 pm
Location: Catonsville, MD

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Rick F. » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:49 pm

Unity wrote:Another worthy travelogue, Rick!

Rick F. wrote:Image

Jody and I stayed at the 1710 Robert Morris Inn once. Two things stand out in my memories of the stay. Our room had a bathroom built into a tiny closet, perhaps the most-cramped shower I have ever experienced -- and I'm a claustrophobiac! :twitching: At dinner we looked up to see Frank Perdue, the chicken man, who was as odd-looking in person as he was in his commercials ("It takes a hard man to make a tender chicken").
Image

--John
(The younger among you probably know Jim Perdue's commercials.)

John,

Thanks for the memories of the Robert Morris Inn. I made a mental note that it would be fun to go back and stay there sometime.

I remember Frank Perdue and his ads quite well. And I saw a lot of chicken farms during my tour. I'm not sure why the Eastern Shore is so suitable for raising chickens--maybe it's just in the collective culture??

Rick F.
For all my tour articles, check out rsftripreporter.net.

2020 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2013 BMW 335i convertible (sold)
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage (sold)
2006 BMW Z4 3.0i roadster (sold)
2005 BMW R1200GS (retired)
2003 BMW F650CS (sold)
User avatar
Rick F.
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 1734
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:43 pm
Location: Catonsville, MD

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Rick F. » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:54 pm

RocketMan wrote:Ha ha! I saw Cornel Sanders (of KFC fame back when it still was Cornel Sanders KFC) in LAX back in 64, he too looked just like his commercials, even had a white German Sheppard with him.
Besides me you’re probably the only person here who would even know there actually was a Cornel Sanders!

Poke poke, rib rib……..


As for You Rick, did I mention how annoying you are becoming with your great photos and historical ramblings?? Ha Ha!

RM

RM,

If you and John are starting an "Old Fahrtz Club," be sure to include me!

As for my annoyingly great photos and historical ramblings, you don't know the half of it: I can be annoying in almost unlimited ways! Image

Rick F.
For all my tour articles, check out rsftripreporter.net.

2020 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2013 BMW 335i convertible (sold)
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage (sold)
2006 BMW Z4 3.0i roadster (sold)
2005 BMW R1200GS (retired)
2003 BMW F650CS (sold)
User avatar
Rick F.
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 1734
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:43 pm
Location: Catonsville, MD

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Rick F. » Tue Dec 01, 2009 9:56 pm

Dough Boy wrote:Superb!

On your next venture, may I suggest Berlin, MD, as it's quite a picturesque little town.

DB,

Thanks! I was in Berlin once, briefly, with my Dad and some of his friends. We didn't have much of a chance to look around, so I'll definitely follow your recommendation.

Rick F.
For all my tour articles, check out rsftripreporter.net.

2020 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2013 BMW 335i convertible (sold)
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage (sold)
2006 BMW Z4 3.0i roadster (sold)
2005 BMW R1200GS (retired)
2003 BMW F650CS (sold)
User avatar
Rick F.
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 1734
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:43 pm
Location: Catonsville, MD

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Rick F. » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:01 pm

Hello Kitty wrote:Great stuff, Rick! What's Anabaptist mean????

Not far south of Federalsburg, you simply must investigate the Laurel-Woodland Ferry. I believe it was free, but a very lovely little ride. Walt and I saw a Bald Eagle from the Ferry a couple years ago.

N38 35.954 W75 39.374 are the coordinates in the middle of the Naticoke River - you can come at it from either side and just wait your turn. I never had the ferry leave while I was waiting because it was full, but it wouldn't surprise me!

Here's a pic from my ride across the ferry about 3 years ago :D

Image

Kitty,

Thanks for the tip on the Laurel-Woodland Ferry. I saw a sign for it, but I didn't have time to investigate further. (I think you should add it to Miss Kitty's Scavenger Hunt for the next SRR.) I'm also Very Impressed that you've memorized its coordinates! (And not just any ol' coordinates, its exact, mid-river ones.) Was the ferry that memorable, or do you remember the coordinates for everywhere you go??!

Rick F.

PS: I believe the Anabaptist religion started in about 1525 and that such groups as the Amish and Mennonites split off from it. I think the word means "re-baptized" or "baptized again." I'm not sure what relationship there is, if any, between modern-day Baptists and Anabaptists.
For all my tour articles, check out rsftripreporter.net.

2020 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2013 BMW 335i convertible (sold)
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage (sold)
2006 BMW Z4 3.0i roadster (sold)
2005 BMW R1200GS (retired)
2003 BMW F650CS (sold)
User avatar
Rick F.
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 1734
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:43 pm
Location: Catonsville, MD

Re: Eastern Shore Rambling

Postby Rick F. » Tue Dec 01, 2009 10:10 pm

R4R&R wrote:
Rick F. wrote:Today, however, only a sapling grown from the original Wye Oak stands where its parent once grew (starting in approximately 1540...)

Does the sapling growing from the base of the original qualify it as still the original tree?

Great pictures and narrative. You really have a good way of putting great photos along with a description of the day to almost have us right there with you. You're like a local tour guide for everywhere you go!

R4R&R,

Hey, thanks. I enjoy writing up these trips, and I'm glad they give you the "I was there" feeling.

Regarding your philosophical question on the Wye Oak sapling, if I thought long and hard about it I probably still wouldn't reach a conclusion! I'd like to think that it's "still the same tree," for the sake of historical continuity and honoring the original Wye Oak. I'd also like to think that this little sapling will be 96' tall and cover nearly a third of an acre in another few hundred years.

Rick F.
For all my tour articles, check out rsftripreporter.net.

2020 Mercedes-Benz SL550
2013 BMW 335i convertible (sold)
2007 Aston Martin V8 Vantage (sold)
2006 BMW Z4 3.0i roadster (sold)
2005 BMW R1200GS (retired)
2003 BMW F650CS (sold)
User avatar
Rick F.
Board Wizard
 
Posts: 1734
Joined: Sun Jul 31, 2005 5:43 pm
Location: Catonsville, MD

Next

Return to Ride Stories

Who is online

Users browsing this forum: Google [Bot] and 8 guests