Fuse Panel Options

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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby RJP3579 » Tue Mar 01, 2011 8:42 am

jskene wrote:There's an interesting new power distribution block sold by Aerostitch (PDM60) discussed here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638076

It's a very sophisticated unit that can be programmed for different applications.

Here's Aerostitch's page on it:

http://www.aerostich.com/powerpak-power ... pdm60.html

Cool. A canbus for my canbus bike....
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby Unity » Tue Mar 01, 2011 11:59 am

jskene wrote:There's an interesting new power distribution block sold by Aerostitch (PDM60) discussed here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638076

It's a very sophisticated unit that can be programmed for different applications.

Here's Aerostitch's page on it:

http://www.aerostich.com/powerpak-power ... pdm60.html

That is an interesting alternative, Jerry, an electronic step up from the fused devices. :-k

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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby BchrisL » Mon Mar 07, 2011 9:47 pm

*
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby eap » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:26 pm

I can use some advice - I don't understand why I would need a fuse panel box [but I don't understand things electrical either] - everything I have is fused and connected direct to the battery:
1- Aux lights with autoswitch,
2 - photonblaster,
3 - heated jacket connection,
4- P3 -lights
5 - GPS 1
Soon to add GPS 2 and sometimes use all the above and the 'cigarette' lighter to charge the cell phone...

Oh - another thing, according to the P-3 light voltmeter, my battery only has 8.7v or so, after full charge on the tender - still starts fine (sometimes I have to reset the clock).
eap
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby eap » Thu Dec 08, 2011 10:26 pm

I can use some advice - I don't understand why I would need a fuse panel box [but I don't understand things electrical either] - everything I have is fused and connected direct to the battery:
1- Aux lights with autoswitch,
2 - photonblaster,
3 - heated jacket connection,
4- P3 -lights
5 - GPS 1
Soon to add GPS 2 and sometimes use all the above and the 'cigarette' lighter to charge the cell phone...

Oh - another thing, according to the P-3 light voltmeter, my battery only has 8.7v or so, after full charge on the tender - still starts fine (sometimes I have to reset the clock).
eap
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby Genen8kua » Fri Dec 09, 2011 12:12 am

eap wrote:I can use some advice - I don't understand why I would need a fuse panel box [but I don't understand things electrical either] - everything I have is fused and connected direct to the battery:
1- Aux lights with autoswitch,
2 - photonblaster,
3 - heated jacket connection,
4- P3 -lights
5 - GPS 1
Soon to add GPS 2 and sometimes use all the above and the 'cigarette' lighter to charge the cell phone...

Oh - another thing, according to the P-3 light voltmeter, my battery only has 8.7v or so, after full charge on the tender - still starts fine (sometimes I have to reset the clock).


The auxillary fuse blocks can clean things up and are particularly nice on the CANbus bikes where you can minimize connections directly to the computerized electrical system that can throw error codes when it sees unexpected loads.

A fully discharged battery will have an open circuit (no load) voltage of a bit less than 11.5 volts - your reading is probably reflecting a voltage drop from running lights, etc, before the engine is running. The clock resetting comes from the voltage dropping even further as the starter draws current. Corrosion on connections can also decrease measured voltages. We can poke around with a multimeter on Sunday if you'd like.
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby eap » Sat Dec 10, 2011 11:58 am

Genen8kua wrote:..SNIP...

The auxillary fuse blocks can clean things up and are particularly nice on the CANbus bikes where you can minimize connections directly to the computerized electrical system that can throw error codes when it sees unexpected loads.

A fully discharged battery will have an open circuit (no load) voltage of a bit less than 11.5 volts - your reading is probably reflecting a voltage drop from running lights, etc, before the engine is running. The clock resetting comes from the voltage dropping even further as the starter draws current. Corrosion on connections can also decrease measured voltages. We can poke around with a multimeter on Sunday if you'd like.

Pokin around sounds great Gene! I'll be connecting the GPS leads. C U
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby Wild Pig » Mon Dec 12, 2011 5:59 pm

I just bought this for the KLR. Haven't installed it yet, though.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... /pc-8.html

It's a 30 amp variation, but they also have a 50. Has 8 circuits with 6 on a relay and two straight from battery. Seems like a pretty solid unit.

(Huh huh.....unit)
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby henwin » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:34 pm

jskene wrote:There's an interesting new power distribution block sold by Aerostitch (PDM60) discussed here:

http://www.advrider.com/forums/showthread.php?t=638076

It's a very sophisticated unit that can be programmed for different applications.

Here's Aerostitch's page on it:

http://www.aerostich.com/powerpak-power ... pdm60.html


It appears that the Aerostich product mentioned above does not exist. The link takes you to a page that's in error. I've never seen such a thing listed in any of their catalogs, which I read pretty carefully. :(
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby henwin » Wed Dec 21, 2011 10:42 pm

Wild Pig wrote:I just bought this for the KLR. Haven't installed it yet, though.

http://www.easternbeaver.com/Main/Produ ... /pc-8.html

It's a 30 amp variation, but they also have a 50. Has 8 circuits with 6 on a relay and two straight from battery. Seems like a pretty solid unit.(Huh huh.....unit)


Eastern Beaver makes really good stuff. I bought 2 of his wiring harnesses for my RT. One for my Centech2 install (from the battery to the fuse panel) and one from the fuse panel to the air horns (up front).
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby misterwhipple » Fri Dec 23, 2011 9:31 am

henwin wrote:It appears that the Aerostich product mentioned above does not exist. The link takes you to a page that's in error. I've never seen such a thing listed in any of their catalogs, which I read pretty carefully. :(


I believe this is it:
http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-repair/electrical/electrical-accessories/power-distribution-module-v2.html
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby eap » Sun Feb 09, 2014 2:14 pm

Reviving this thread for new technology ...I need some advice regarding these options for wiring my '14 R1200GS LC:
Option 1- the ~$200 PDM60 (is this overkill?) http://www.rowe-electronics.com/modules LINK FIXED vs
Option 2 - the ~$115 Denali fuse block http://www.twistedthrottle.com/powerhub2-fuse-block-master-ground-block-and-wiring-harness-for-motorcycles PLUS the ~$20 Twisted Throttle CAN Bus elec connector: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/electrical-connection-can-bus-electrical-connector-for-bmw-ducati-triumph-motorcycles

Bonus question: For option 1 is it wise/preferred/best practice to use the ground cable such as the Rocketmoto (~$40 wiring kit)? I assume it is not needed for option 2 since the grounds are within the Denali. http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/products/electrical-wiring-access/pdm60-wiring-kit-by-rocket-moto.html

This is what I know is currently is connected to my battery (dealer installed) which would be re-routed to the fuse block to tidy up the bulky battery connects:
- Powerlet 15 plug #1 - replaces the OEM dash unit
- Powerlet 15 plug #2 - left side panel
- Additional pigtail for heated jacket

These I would reroute to the fuse block to reduce bulky cluttered connections to the battery. I do want the capability to give and receive jump starts through the Powerlets...

Future connects:
1 Skene P3
2 Skene Photon Blasters
3 Skene controller module

I am not planning any additional lights (not soon anyway), I have thought about mounting a second GPS (My old Nuvi 500) but it could run on it's own battery.

I also have the following dealer installed accessories but I don't believe either are directly connected to the battery:
- BMW OEM auxiliary lights/harness/switch
- BMW OEM Navigator V
Last edited by eap on Mon Feb 10, 2014 9:48 am, edited 2 times in total.
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby henwin » Sun Feb 09, 2014 11:15 pm

misterwhipple wrote:
henwin wrote:It appears that the Aerostich product mentioned above does not exist. The link takes you to a page that's in error. I've never seen such a thing listed in any of their catalogs, which I read pretty carefully. :(


I believe this is it:
http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-repair/electrical/electrical-accessories/power-distribution-module-v2.html

When I click on the link above, I get what is essentially a "404 page not found" error. :(
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby Unity » Sun Feb 09, 2014 11:27 pm

henwin wrote:http://www.aerostich.com/prevent-or-repair/electrical/electrical-accessories/power-distribution-module-v2.html

When I click on the link above, I get what is essentially a "404 page not found" error. :(

The error page has a search app that, when queried for power distribution, leads to here:
http://www.aerostich.com/aerostich-power-distribution-module-1.html

--John
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Re: Fuse Panel Options

Postby henwin » Mon Feb 10, 2014 12:03 am

eap wrote:Reviving this thread for new technology ...I need some advice regarding these options for wiring my '14 R1200GS LC:
Option 1- the ~$200 PDM60 (is this overkill?) http://www.twistedthrottle.com/electrical-connection-can-bus-electrical-connector-for-bmw-ducati-triumph-motorcycles

First things first, I think this is the link: http://www.twistedthrottle.com/rowe-ele ... able-cable you meant for the one you accidentally put in above.

Second, I think that the PDM at $200 is WAY overkill for what you are looking for. It's got those nice LEDs, but who's ever going to see them? They'll be under the seat!

If you do a Google search on "fuse panels for motorcycles" you will come up with a bunch of leads for units that are mostly less expensive than the PDM cited above.



Be sure to read the reviews of the unit mentioned above. There is very disheartening info there which may cause you to think about a different fuse block than the PowerHub2.

eap wrote:Bonus question: For option 1 is it wise/preferred/best practice to use the ground cable such as the Rocketmoto (~$40 wiring kit)? I assume it is not needed for option 2 since the grounds are within the Denali. http://www.rocketmoto.com/index.php/products/electrical-wiring-access/pdm60-wiring-kit-by-rocket-moto.html

This is what I know is currently is connected to my battery (dealer installed) which would be re-routed to the fuse block to tidy up the bulky battery connects:
- Powerlet 15 plug #1 - replaces the OEM dash unit
- Powerlet 15 plug #2 - left side panel
- Additional pigtail for heated jacket

These I would reroute to the fuse block to reduce bulky cluttered connections to the battery. I do want the capability to give and receive jump starts through the Powerlets...


A couple of comments: You can run your heated gear from one of the Powerlet connectors provided you have the proper sized fuse. For example, most heated jacket liners attached to a pair of heated gloves draw between 10 and 14A, therefore a 15A fuse on that circuit should be enough. If you buy a BMW male connector and connect your heated gear wires to it, you can connect your heated dear directly to the PowerLet connector. I do it. It works great, and is very easy to disconnect.

You only need 1 Powerlet connection from which to use your battery charger, and that connection has to be wired "always hot", so you don't need the electrical system "on" when recharging your battery. You can connect your heated gear to the hot Powerlet connector and kill 2 birds with one stone.

You say you want to have a direct connection to the battery in order to offer jump starts. But the real question that you have to ask is: are the Powerlet(s) even capable of handling that kind of current draw :?: I think you need to get in touch w/ Powerlet and find out. Power directly from the battery for a jump start is going to need pretty fat wires to handle the current. I would guess that a Powerlet connector is not designed for that kind of thing, but find out for sure, before you fry something.

Skene's equipment (below) draws very little power and could probably all be run off 1 connection with a 5A fuse, but they should be on a switched connection, not an "always hot" one.

eap wrote:Future connects:
1 Skene P3
2 Skene Photon Blasters
3 Skene controller module

I am not planning any additional lights (not soon anyway), I have thought about mounting a second GPS (My old Nuvi 500) but it could run on it's own battery.


The equipment below is dealer installed and runs through the CANBus, so you don't need to worry about wiring for it.

eap wrote:I also have the following dealer installed accessories but I don't believe either are directly connected to the battery:
- BMW OEM auxiliary lights/harness/switch
- BMW OEM Navigator V
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