Switched Accessory Power

Hello, Thanks again to all who helped me wire in my accessories. As discussed at January's Electro-Shock Tech Day, I've posted a few photos and will now attempt to link to them here. But first a little background on the project. . .

My mission was to install a new GPS and Autocom on my '02 BMW R1150GS Adventure. I wanted the power switched so that the accessories would run only when the ignition is on (the Zumo GPS has a built-in battery, so I can choose to keep it on when I turn off the bike).

With the help of many others at BMWBMW, BMWMOA and ADVRIDER, I learned to use a relay and a power terminal. I considered using a fuse block (Centech, BlueSea) but those items would not fit as easily in the space I wanted to use. I also considered Touratech's CanBus helper but I wanted separate fuses for each accessory. Also, those items were not immediately available and I'm totally compulsive.

I chose to mount the relay, power block and autocom all under my seat (aftermarket seat from Sargent, tall version). To house these items I dug up an old VHS box and cut it here and there to allow wires to pass through (also a hole or two to let water out, if it should ever find its way in).

The schematic attached below is the final version. Many prior versions were modified based on input from others (thanks!). As a rookie wrencher, I did as much set-up on my own as possible, but the tricky stuff was done at Tech Day.

If you have read this far, then thanks. I hope this helps you out. Now for the photos (I hope!).

The schematic

At Tech Day - thanks!

At Tech Day - thanks again!

After Tech Day - The view from above, most work is done, still need to set up autocom.

Close-up view of relay (to the left of the autocom, lower item) and accessory power terminal (to the left of the autocom, upper item). Note the relay's green trigger wire running off the horn fuse).

View with covers on fuse box and accessory power box closed. Touratech sticker added to increase value of bike

Not directly related to the wiring project, but here is how the GPS is mounted. To mount the RAM arm, I used a replacement handlebar bolt and cool angled RAM ball instead of the u-clamp that came with the Zumo (Touratech # GCMXB, GRAB9). I also replaced the easy-turning RAM arm screw with a security screw (Touratech # GCSEC2 - I wonder when I'll lose the special little wrench?).

I finished mounting the GPS late one COLD January night. No good option for a test ride, but I did turn her on to check out the new night-time look of the controls. The photo is a little fuzzy, but aren't we all from time to time?

Re-Key New (2005+) System Cases

Following on the excellent work here,, I found a couple missing parts, and thought I would supplement this with a few important notes and pictures of my own.

I had a very hard time trying to get the bent paperclip to unlock the tumbler. I just couldn’t get enough control over the paperclip, and couldn’t find the release. So I decided to take the case apart before my frustration made it happen in a less than controlled way!

The following are my supplemental instructions.

First remove the lid with the 4 Torx T25 screws.

Remove all the screws indicated by the arrows. These are Torx T-20 and T-25 screws. Make a note of their positions as it is easy to forget which is which.

Using the dreaded paperclip, I easily found the hole and pushed the release. You must have the working key in place to do this. Simply turn the key part way while pushing the release, and pull the key and tumbler out together.

Note how they come out as one piece.

Be careful not to let the locking mechanism come out of place, and make sure the control rods are securely in place as well. I found that just simply holding in position until I removed the tumbler was enough. Then just let it rest as is.

Here is the tumbler with the original key. Not that all the tumbler blades are flush without pushing on them.

Here is the new/ignition key. Notice how many of the tumbler plates are not flush. Also notice how some are? Mark the ones that are flush. You do not want to remove them.

I found the hardest part was removing the chrome cap that is on the top of the tumbler. It is very sturdy stainless steel, and will resist removal.

Place a bladed punch or screwdriver in the dimpled edge and tap firmly with a hammer. You will have to do this repeatedly until the dimples are nearly smooth.

Then take a punch to the edge while holding the tumbler at an angle and tap it firmly to remove it. It takes a bit of patience, but isn’t really hard.

Beware that under the stainless cap are two small blocks for keeping out rain and dirt, and two very small springs. Do not lose them, they are hard to replace, and necessary.

Once the cap is off you will find a locking rod made of brass. This rod keeps the tumbler plates in place.

Note the rod held in place.

Pull it out with a pair of small pliers. It is not in firmly, but the grease in the tumbler will keep it from just falling out.

Once the rod is out the tumbler plates can be easily remove by simply pulling them out. Be a bit gentle as not to disturb the small springs. Only pull the non-marked ones. Use the pulled ones to rearrange them and find the combination that gives you the most number of flush plates with the ignition key in place.

Here is what I ended up with using only rearranged plates. I had four good slots, and two I could not use. That is fine. Four of them should be easily sufficient to discourage the casual thief.

When you get them maximum number of plates in place, you are ready to reassemble the lock tumbler.

Put the rod back in place. It just slips in.

Then install the rain guards carefully. Beveled side up, and towards the center aligned with the key slot.

Install the springs. These go in easily, but will pop out of the tumbler is roughly handled.

Once you get the springs in, place the stainless steel cap in place and lined up with the key slot, tap the cap in place with a firm tap of a light hammer or other tool.

Place the lock on its side and remove the little springs from the unused plate slots.

Using a punch, or small screwdriver, tap the dimples back into the cap to hold it in place.

Note: The cap may not be really snug, and that is fine.

Test the key one more time for smooth action, and to ensure the tumbler plates are still flush.

Install the barrel with the flat positioned as in the picture. Turn the lock gently and pull the key.

Carefully reinstall the liner and replace all the screws.

Test the locking mechanism for functionality, and make sure it will allow you to lock and unlock the hold-down mechanism that latches the case to the bike.

Add a GS Torque Arm to your R Bike

Found an R1100GS torque arm through IBMWR for $65. The stock R-R arm is 385mm center-to-center; the GS unit is 365mm.

It's actually a really easy switch to make.

First, obviously, put the bike on the center stand and since you're going to be pushing/pulling hard on rear components, you'd be smart to secure the front wheel to the center stand so you can't rock the bike foward off the c-stand.

I ditched as much weight as possible from the rear end to bias the bike forward - side cases off, seats off, etc.

Since both bolts & nuts are the same on my bike, all I needed was a 16mm socket, a 16mm box-end wrench, and a torque wrench for reinstallation.

Loosened both nuts and removed the rear bolt. Notice the final drive fitting has what looks like a stainless steel insert that semi-floats inside some kind of rubber bushing. The rear end of the torque arm fits OUTSIDE this spot on the final drive; the FRONT of the torque arm has the same steel-and-rubber insert that fits INSIDE the fitting on the transmission. Impossible to get the torque arm installed backwards.

To get the front bolt out, I had to depress the brake pedal and hold it down to get to the bolt. If my footpegs weren't lowered, requiring the brake pedal to be adjusted downward, it would have been a lot easier/faster to get out. It wasn't hard, just slowed me down a tad as I don't have that Third Arm attachment yet. I understand it's a Special BMW Tool(tm) soon to be available.

Swap out the torque arms, being sure to put the stock one down and not pick it right back up, then re-inserted the front bolt and made the nut finger-tight.

To get the rear bolt back through the new torque arm and the fitting on the final drive, I had to push UP on the back of the bike. Luckily the side case mounting bar provided ample acreage for grab & push. Once I got both bolts mostly tight, I checked the torque specs (43 N-m) and used the torque wrench to get them in properly.

I like this kind of abstracty picture, that's all

So that's what I did today instead of ride a nice 250-mile loop out VA 55, across the mountains, and back across US 33.

BTW the red glow in some of the pix is my t-shirt. Kind of cool.

Anyway, a quick test-ride (scofflaw that I am!) to the gas station, up US 1, and back home through the other end of my neighborhood does indeed show increased ride height; my unofficial estimation would be that the 20mm shorter arm gives approx. 1.5 to 2 additional inches of ride height at the seat level. I could tell in my knees *immediately*.

I couldn't really blaze it through my residential area, but even at 25-30 mph in 2nd gear turning in felt tighter in both directions.

Before:

It's not exactly the same angle and lighting but it's kind of close...

I didn't give half a thought to what I did with the original torque arm - I just tossed it in the back of my truck where I keep my tools.

I had to work on my truck yesterday...and found a new use for the old torque arm.

(the hydraulics on my hood have never worked properly...now I can work under the hood without holding it up with one hand!)

What does this do for you?

Turn-ins on the bike feel a lot tighter, like I don't need as much linear/forward movement to make the same turn as I did before...not sure if that's what is actually going on, that's just what it feels like. I like it a lot. The 850 is a relatively low-powered bike and I'm a really big chunk of humanity, so anything that firms up the ride and tightens the line a bit is a plus in my book. I've compared it to dropping the forks in the triple clamp on a "normal" bike, as it has basically the same effect.

I think the idea of an adjustable torque arm is pretty trick... but honestly how often would you really adjust it? How often do you adjust your shocks to mediate weight changes (passenger, luggage, etc.)? Or even your tire pressure? I'd say if you're a tweaker, always adjusting those things to match your riding condition, then an adjustable torque arm is probably a good idea. Otherwise it seems like overkill.